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Basics
(From the cover of our Lonely Planet guide book)...
Ilha Formosa, the beautiful Isle, is a modern society steeped in
Chinese heritage, a land of tropical islands and mountain
retreats, neon-lit noodle bars and teeming night markets.
Whatever you crave - a soak at a hot spring, a temple hopping
itinerary - this is the only guide that puts it all in one book,
from the practical to the inspirational, let us connect us with
Taiwan. (Mmmm, perhaps I copied too much
there. Nobody reads this crap anyway, I bet nobody even
notices!)).
History: Lots. More specifically,
inhabited for over 10,000 years and invaded frequently by the
Chinese and Japanese, less frequently by the Dutch. Once,
in fact. Language: Mandarin Chinese. Population:
22.5 million, 98% Han Chinese, 2% indigenous Monetary unit, New Taiwan Dollar, 1GBP = NT62 as at
16/11/06. Toilet situation:. Outlook: Fair to middling: Actual:
Good, mostly western style, clean and functional, BYO toilet
paper and once used put it in the bin provided, not down the
toilet.
UK
Foreign Office Travel Advice
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Diary
shortcuts - click on
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16th - 18th Nov 2006 - Taipei - Taipei
101, temples, markets.
19th Nov 2006 - Tienhsiang in Taroko Gorge
20th Nov 2006 - Hualien
21st to 24th Nov 2006 - Kenting
25th Nov 2006 - Kenting to Kaohsiung, Tainan and Chiayi
26th Nov 2006 - Chiayi and Fenchihu
26th Nov 2006 - Taipei to Seoul
| Thu 16th
November, 2006
We had booked a hostel on the internet again, this is
becoming a habit! But Taipei doesn't seem to have a lot of
cheap accommodation, and arriving later in the day we wanted to
make sure we didn't have to traipse around looking for
vacancies. The directions to the hostel seemed even more
simple than those for the Tokyo hostel, catch the Evergreen
airport bus and get off at the 12th stop. After a couple
of beers and wines on the flight, I thought it could be
difficult keeping track and counting the stops, especially if
the bus didn't stop at some of them. But we needn't have
worried, the stops were number and the bus stopped at all of
them, and just to make sure we didn't miss our stop, the bus
driver told us when we got there. Talk about failsafe. We
found the Taipei House International Youth Hostel a few yards
from the bus stop, up on the 11th (top) floor of the building,
on a busy street. We had a friendly reception, and were
soon in our room, with a small double and a single bed.
Quite tired after our long day, although we had only gained one
hour, so after a brief shopping trip for essentials, we soon
retired.
Fri 17th November, 2006 Slow start to the day,
sorted our stuff out, yet again, and did some stuff on the
computer. There was no wifi, but I could connect my laptop
to the internet in the reception area. Needed some
exercise, and despite it looking pretty warm out there, walked
to the Taipei 101, the tallest building in the world, a few
miles away. Found a bar/restaurant called The Brass Monkey
on the way, popped in for a quick beer and to check if it was
any relation to the one in Dawlish. Dawlish? Where's
that? Good point, well put. I explained it was a place
somewhere in the 19th century. Checked out the Xintian temple
on the way, not far from our hostel. Its a fairly new
temple, but looks old and traditional, and is one of the busiest
in the city, especially on this day for some reason we couldn't
understand. The Taipei 101 is certainly a tall building,
although I'd argue with their claim that it can be seen from
anywhere in Taipei, we walked for at least half an hour before
we saw it. The street's were busy with cars, buses and
many scooters, which were also parked on ever available space
along the roadside and elsewhere. Had to keep your wits
about you as they would often ride their scooters down the
paths, although they did seem to try and avoid us. One
disappointment about the 101 is that the observation deck is
only on the 89th floor, that's a bit of a cheat. It was
350 NT to get to the 89th, and for an extra 100NT I got to climb
the stairs up to the open air 91st deck, from where the view was
better because we didn't have to peer through misted or dirty
windows, as on the 89th. I guess they dont clean the
windows too often up there, 350 metres above the ground, but I
did see the window cleaners cranes on the 91st, so it's not like
they had to use a ladder! We had lunch in the food court in
the basement, a huge place, described in our guide book as one
of the best in the world. Not quite sure I'd go that far,
but there was a fairly impressive range of offerings, although
most of the food counters only had menus in Chinese. I
found a curry stall and had a fairly good chicken curry, if a
little Chinese in style, Rita went for a vegetarian noodle with
veg soup, both really good. Caught the MRT (mass
rapid transit) back towards our hostel, with a change at Main
Station, the busy hub of the MRT system. The stations were
clean and well organized, so despite the crowds everything moved
along smoothly. Passengers even queued to get on the
trains, and the ticket machines were easy to understand and use,
and cheap, too. We had to walk 10 minutes from the
MRT to out hostel, stopping on the way at a quiet back street
restaurant for a drink and some snacks, compliments of the
management. The place is going to be closing down in a
week or so, and the owner and his brother were moving to Beijing
to run a new restaurant on Tiananmen square, so we took his new
address and promised to visit him next time we're in
Beijing. I'm sure we'll be back there sometime in the
future.
Sat 18th November, 2006
Went back to our friendly back street restaurant for lunch,
ramen (noodle soup) with pork slices and a very dodgy looking
egg, along with a sort of omelette. Desert was a small bowl of
creamed rice, made with black rice. We're a bit wary of egss
since we read about Thousand Year Eggs. They're duck eggs
that are covered in straw and buried for 6 months until the yoke
turns green and the white turns to jelly. Traditionally,
they should be first soaked in horses urine before burial.
I dont think that's what was in our noodle dish, but I'm not
going to dwell on the thought.
Checked out the Chiang Kai-Shek memorial, a large hall
containing a large bronze statue of the revered leader.
Set in a large square, along with the National Theatre and
National Concert Hall. The square is used by lots of
groups of youngsters, practising dancing and music, good to see. Arrived
at the famous Longshan Temple after dark, so couldn't get a good
look at the amazing decorations, although it was lit up to some
extent and was still a fascinating place to see. Very busy
with worshippers, nobody took any notice of us walking around as
they went from point to point within the temple with their
incense sticks. I found a a sign in the entrance to the
temple, with instructions on how to worship. I'll put the
photo on the website soon. It also has instructions on how
to toss Jiao, two roughly crescent shaped stones(?) that are
thrown to answer questions and requests, and depending on how
they land, the answer is yes, no, or question not properly
asked. After the temple we wandered around the
surround streets where we found the night market, known as the
Snake Alley because of the snake charmers who practice their art
there sometimes. Its full of foods stall, boutiques, sweet
shops and massage shops. Real massages, not a front for
something less wholesome.'
Back
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Sun 19th November, 2006
Checkedc out of our hostel and caught a bus to the central
train station, where we bought a special 2-week ticket, which
allowed us to make 7 train journeys around the island. I
was amazed at how easy it was to buy, that sort of ticket can
take hours if not days to buy in some places, with lots of form
filling, passport checking, photos, etc. It took less than
a minute, just handed over the money and he gave us our little
ticket book. Most impressed. Caught the next train down
the East coast to the small town of Sinchong, from where we got
a taxi up to the village of Tienhsiang, high up in the Taroko
Gorge, a National Parks and one of the top tourist attractions
of Taiwan. The cheapest room we could find was at the Tienhsiang
Youth Activity Centre, NT$1900 for a double room. We could have
opted for the dorm beds, but they seemed very spartan, with just
a mattress on the floor. Evening entertainment also seemed
spartan, so we bought some noodles and beer from a small stall
near the bus stand and had a queit night in. Back to Itinerary
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Mon 20th November, 2006
Went for an early morning walk down to the temple and pagoda
across the ravine from Tienhsiang, the pagoda was not quite as
impressive close up as it looked from a distance, but gave a
good view of the Taroko Gorge from the top, or at least the
small section of the gorge you could see from here. The
gorge cuts through the granite mountain range for 20km, with
sheer cliff faces rising up to 3700 metres. The road up
the gorge clings to the sides, with many sharp, breathtaking
bends, and also dozens of tunnels, cutting through the edges of
the gorge and also proecting the road from rockfalls. After
checking out of the hotel at 10am, Rita waited with our
luggage at the hotel while went off to walk the Paiyang
trail, a short walk to a three stage waterfall. The walk
started with a 380 metre tunnel, with no lights and plenty of
dripping water, before following a river for a mile or so,
through several more shorter tunnels and eventually arriving
at the water falls. They're apparently at their best
just after heavy rainfall, i.e. not now, but were still quite
impressive. There were also a wide variety of
butterflies along the pathway, of all shapes and size Caught
the Hualien bus from Tienhsiang, slightly scary ride down the
gorge, I think the driver was trying to break his personal
best record for fastest descent, but we were treated to some
great views of the gorge on the way down, even if it was
uncomfortably close at times. Once at Hualien, as it was
getting on, we decided to stop there for the night, finding a
fairly reasonable hotel for NT$800, the Chan Taj Hotel.
It was in our guide book, didn't have an English sign outside,
but as we stood across the road from it looking at the map and
trying to figure out where it was, the manageress came across
the road and invited us in. How lucky was
that! For dinner we stopped at a Mongolian hotpot
sort of restaurant, not sure what they called it as they
didn't speak any English. Sunk into the table were
heated stock pots, with a small control dial on the side of
the table. We were given a plate each of various vegetables
and seafood, and also a plate of thinly sliced raw meat, beef
for me, chicken for Rita. The idea was to put the raw
ingredients into the pot and cook it yourself. Great
fun. Got some laughs and smiles from the locals as they
watched us, but I think we sort of got it right in the
end. Tasted pretty good as well.
Back to Itinerary
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Tue 21st November, 2006
Up early and caught a train down to Taitung, crossing
over the tropic of Cancer on the way, we left our bags at the
station and nipped off to the Peinan Cultural Park for a
couple of hours. Its where the Puyuma tribe lived 5000
years ago, and was only discovered in 1980 when they were
digging for the new train station. They discovered
hundreds of coffins, made from stone slabs. Theres a
good museum there with relics form the excavations. From
Taitung we caught a train around to Fangliao, then a bus down
to the tourist town of Kenting, the busiest tourist hotspot of
Taiwan, and by that I mean Taiwanese tourists, not just
foreigners. Checked out a number of hotels but couldn't get
anyone to lower their prices, even when we said we wanted to
stay for several nights. Finally found a good room for
NT$2000 for 3 nights. Once we had moved into the room,
discovered that not only did we have satellite TV with films
and news channels, and air-con, but I also discovered a fast
internet connection port in the wall. Bargain. Didn't
get up to much in our three days there, I cam down with a bug
of some sort which took me out for a day or so and didn't feel
like doing much. Still, it was nice and warm and we had
time to relax. Back to Itinerary |
Sat 25th November, 2006
Busy day travelling, bus North to Fangliou, train to
Kaoisiang (?), another train to Tainan, 3 hours walking tour
of city and finally train to Chiayi. Back to Itinerary
Sun 26th November, 2006
Probably the wrong day to do it, but we leave
tomorrow so we had no choice, caught the Alishan Forest
Railway up to Fenqihu, a climb of 1400 meters. According
to our guidebook, its one of only 3 steep grade (did they mean
gradient?) alpine trains in the world. I think the other
two must be the narrow gauge trains to Shimla and Darjeeling
in India, both of which we've travelled up on, so that means
we've done them all now.
The reason it was probably the wrong day ot do
it was because, being a Sunday, everyone else decided it was a
good place for a day trip, and it was packed. There were
a few walking trails around the town, but we spent our few
hours there wandering around the market. The train back
down was even more packed than the train up, but we somehow
managed to get seats for the 2 hour ride. Nice views
when we could see them, though.
Back to Itinerary
Mon 27th November, 2006
Caught the 9:30am express train back to
Taipei, arriving at 12:30. Had to wait an hour at the bus
terminal for the airport bus, and eventually made it to the
airport at 3pm, just in time to check in for our flight to
Seoul. Another whole day of travelling. Never mind,
we'll have time to relax in Seoul.
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